Hakuba Happo Onsen Guide

Area guide

The Happo-one area is home to Hakuba Happo-one Ski Resort, which boasts one of the largest scales in Japan. Hakuba Village, bustling with many climbers and skiers, is one of Japan's premier international mountain resorts with a history spanning over 100 years. On an onsen trip, you can not only enjoy bathing in an open-air bath while taking in the majestic scenery of the Northern Alps, but also immerse yourself in outdoor activities such as skiing and mountain climbing, allowing you to fully experience the great outdoors throughout the four seasons.

Hakuba Happo Onsen features four distinctive day-use onsen facilities and two ashiyu (foot baths). The four day-use onsen facilities are "Happo-no-Yu," "Mimizuku-no-Yu," "Obinata-no-Yu," and "Sato-no-Yu."

Happo-no-Yu is the largest day-use onsen in Hakuba Happo Onsen, located at the entrance of the Happo Onsen area. It features an open-air bath that contains natural hydrogen. From the baths, you can enjoy panoramic views of the Hakuba mountain range, including the three iconic peaks: Mt. Shirouma (Shirouma-dake), Mt. Shakushi (Shakushi-dake), and Mt. Shirouma Yarigatake (Shirouma Yarigatake).

Mimizuku-no-Yu is located on the way to Happo from JR Hakuba Station. From its open-air bath, you can enjoy views of the Hakuba mountain range, with the Happo-one ridge as a backdrop, including the three iconic peaks: Mt. Shirouma (Shirouma-dake), Mt. Shakushi (Shakushi-dake), and Mt. Shirouma Yarigatake (Shirouma Yarigatake). In spring, you can also enjoy a nighttime soak while viewing the cherry blossoms under the night sky.

Obinata-no-Yu is the facility closest to the natural spring on the way from Happo to Hakuba big snowy valley. Known as a natural hydrogen onsen, it is reputed for its potential anti-aging benefits.

Hakuba big snowy valley is a large snow valley located between Mt. Shirouma (Shirouma-dake) and Mt. Shakushi (Shakushi-dake) in the Northern Alps. It is one of Japan's three major snow valleys, along with Harinoki big snowy valley and Tsurugi-sawa big snowy valley, also in the Northern Alps. A snow valley (sekkei) is a place where the snow remains year-round without melting. Even during the hot summer months, "sekkei walking," where you can hike comfortably over the snow, is popular among climbers.

Sato-no-Yu is located in the heart of the onsen town. Opened in 1988, the facility is notable for its hexagonal exterior. It is popular not only as a day-use onsen but also among those staying overnight in Hakuba.

The two ashiyu (foot baths) that help soothe tired feet are both within walking distance from JR Hakuba Station.

*Please note that the information provided may not be the most up-to-date. Be sure to verify the details yourself before using the facilities.

Access

The nearest train station is JR Hakuba Station, and the closest airport is Shinshu Matsumoto Airport. If you plan to travel by bus, note that reservations may be required in some cases, so it's advisable to check in advance.

From Sapporo

＜Plane, Bus, and Train＞
New Chitose Airport → Shinshu Matsumoto Airport → ＜Shuttle Bus＞ → Matsumoto Bus Terminal (in front of JR Matsumoto Station) → ＜Limited Express Azusa＞ → JR Hakuba Station (approx. 3 hours)

A shuttle bus operates from Shinshu Matsumoto Airport to Matsumoto Bus Terminal (in front of JR Matsumoto Station). Reservations are not required.

From Niigata

＜Train＞
JR Niigata Station → JR Naoetsu Station → JR Itoigawa Station → JR Minami-Otari Station → JR Hakuba Station (approx. 4 hours)

From Nagano

＜Bus＞
Shinshu Matsumoto Airport → ＜Shuttle Bus＞ → Hakuba Happo Bus Terminal (approx. 2 hours 15 minutes)

The airport shuttle bus is reservation-only, and same-day reservations are not accepted. You must have a flight reservation at Shinshu Matsumoto Airport to use this service.

＜Bus＞
Nagano Station East Exit → ＜Express Bus＞ → Hakuba Happo Bus Terminal (approx. 1 hour 15 minutes)

An express bus runs from the East Exit of JR Nagano Station to Hakuba. Reservations are not required.

From Kanazawa

＜Train＞
JR Kanazawa Station → ＜Hokuriku Shinkansen＞ → JR Itoigawa Station → JR Minami-Otari Station → JR Hakuba Station (approx. 2 hours 10 minutes)

From Tokyo

＜Train＞
JR Shinjuku Station → ＜Limited Express Azusa＞ → JR Hakuba Station (approx. 3 hours 40 minutes)

＜Train and Bus＞
JR Tokyo Station → ＜Hokuriku Shinkansen＞ → JR Nagano Station → ＜Express Bus＞ → JR Hakuba Station (approx. 2 hours 40 minutes)

An express bus runs from the East Exit of JR Nagano Station to Hakuba. Reservations are not required.

＜Bus＞
JR Shinjuku Station → ＜Highway Bus＞ → JR Hakuba Station (Daytime: approx. 5 hours 15 minutes)
JR Shinjuku Station → ＜Highway Bus＞ → JR Hakuba Station (Nighttime: approx. 6 hours 40 minutes)

The highway bus is reservation-only, with both daytime and nighttime services available.

From Nagoya

＜Train＞
JR Nagoya Station → ＜Limited Express Shinano＞ → JR Matsumoto Station → ＜Limited Express Azusa＞ → JR Hakuba Station (approx. 3 hours)

From Osaka

＜Train＞
JR Shin-Osaka Station → ＜Tokaido Shinkansen＞ → JR Nagoya Station → ＜Limited Express Shinano＞ → JR Matsumoto Station → ＜Limited Express Azusa＞ → JR Hakuba Station (approx. 3 hours 50 minutes)

From Fukuoka

＜Plane, Bus, and Train＞
Fukuoka Airport → Shinshu Matsumoto Airport → ＜Shuttle Bus＞ → Matsumoto Bus Terminal (in front of JR Matsumoto Station) → ＜Limited Express Azusa＞ → JR Hakuba Station (approx. 3 hours)

A shuttle bus operates from Shinshu Matsumoto Airport to Matsumoto Bus Terminal (in front of JR Matsumoto Station). Reservations are not required.

Water quality

Hakuba Happo Onsen is characterized by the serpentine rock that forms the geology of the Happo-one ridge. The onsen is created through the reaction between hot water and serpentine rock. Hakuba Happo Onsen is strongly alkaline, with a very high hydrogen content, and contains hydrocarbons like methane, which are fundamental to life.

The water quality of Hakuba Happo Onsen is a clear and colorless alkaline simple hot spring (alkaline hypotonic high-temperature spring). Among simple hot springs, those with a hydrogen ion concentration of pH 8.5 or higher are referred to as alkaline hot springs. The hydrogen ion concentration of Hakuba Happo Onsen exceeds pH 11, making it a rare and strong alkaline hot spring even on a global scale. The highly alkaline water has the effect of removing dirt and dead skin cells from the surface of the skin. When you soak in this soft and smooth onsen, the peeling effect leaves your skin feeling silky and smooth.

Hakuba Happo Onsen is also known as Japan's only onsen that contains natural hydrogen. Near the source, hydrogen concentrations exceeding the standard values have been detected. Serpentine rock  is formed when peridotite reacts with water deep underground. During the process of peridotite transforming into serpentine rock, natural hydrogen is produced. It is believed that this natural hydrogen is what gets incorporated into the onsen water. Onsens rich in hydrogen are said to offer anti-aging benefits when soaked in or consumed.

Additionally, component analysis has revealed that the onsen contains hydrocarbons, such as methane, which are fundamental to life, and that the number of bacteria present is extremely low compared to other onsens. The bacteria that do exist in the onsen are capable of surviving in the highly alkaline environment and exhibit characteristics similar to primitive life forms. This suggests that the water quality (spring quality) of Hakuba Happo Onsen is similar to that of Earth’s oceans around 4 billion years ago, when life first emerged. Because of this, scientists around the world believe that Hakuba Happo Onsen may hold the key to understanding the origins of life on Earth. Imagining the grand story of Earth's early history while soaking in the onsen at Hakuba Happo Onsen adds an intriguing dimension to the experience.

History

The history of Hakuba Happo Onsen is closely tied to the history of mountaineering in Hakuba Village. The origins of Hakuba Happo Onsen date back to an attempt in 1876 to draw onsen water from a high mountain source down to the village at the foot of the mountains. However, this endeavor was tragically interrupted by an accident, causing the project to be abandoned for over 100 years. During this period, Hakuba Village developed into a mountain resort, and with the rise of skiing and mountaineering popularity, the development of the onsen was eventually resumed.

In 1876, volunteers from the Hosono area (now the Happo area) undertook an ambitious project to draw onsen water from Hakuba Yari Onsen, located at an elevation of 2,100 meters, down to the village at the foot of the mountain using bamboo pipes. However, the plan was interrupted by heavy winter snowfall. Before the workers could descend the mountain, a massive avalanche struck the construction site and their lodgings, tragically claiming the lives of 21 people, leading to the abandonment of the project.

Until the end of the Edo period (1603–1867), the Hakuba mountain range in the Happo-one area was considered a sacred place, and climbing it was out of the question. The mountains were rarely visited unless it was for purposes such as border patrol, religious pilgrimages associated with mountain worship, or hunting. The British pastor and mountaineer Walter Weston, who climbed Mt. Shirouma (Shirouma-dake) in 1894, became the first person to introduce the Japanese Alps to the world in his book published in 1896.

Weston introduced a new perspective on mountaineering in Japan, shifting it from being primarily for religious or hunting purposes, as traditionally practiced by the Japanese, to an activity enjoyed as leisure or sport. Following his influence, many geologists, botanists, renowned mountaineers, and other enthusiasts began to visit the mountains.

Around 1907, Teiitsu Matsuzawa established a mountain hut with an open-air bath near the source of Hakuba Yari Onsen, laying the foundation for tourism in Hakuba. Since then, this Hakuba Yari Onsen Hut has become a popular destination among mountaineers and onsen enthusiasts, known as one of the highest-altitude onsens in Japan.

In 1913, a 1:50,000 scale topographic map of Mt. Shirouma (Shirouma-dake) was published, and three years later, the Shinano Railway was opened. This development led to Mt. Shirouma becoming increasingly popular among mountaineers.

At that time, mountaineers either stayed at inns at the foot of Mt. Shirouma or lodged at the homes of local guides. In 1937, 16 guide households in Hosono (now Happo) officially obtained permission to operate accommodations for travelers. This is considered the beginning of the minshuku (Japanese guesthouse) tradition, and Hosono (now Happo) is known as the birthplace of minshuku in Japan. This area rapidly developed into a ski and mountain resort by 1948, and about 10 years later, 295 minshuku were providing lodging for 13,000 guests.

In the late 1970s, with the arrival of a ski and mountaineering boom, the long-desired onsen development in Happo began to progress once again.

The area's name was changed from Hosono to Happo, and in 1982, more than 100 years after the tragic accident in 1876, drilling for onsen water was initiated, leading to the successful discovery of onsens the following year. In 1986, "Obinata-no-Yu" and "Daiichi Sato-no-Yu" (now known as "Happo-no-Yu") were opened, followed by "Daini Sato-no-Yu" (now known as "Sato-no-Yu") and "Mimizuku-no-Yu" in 1988. These developments resulted in the establishment of four public onsen facilities. By 1992, about 100 households in the area had begun receiving onsen water supply, transforming Happo into a prominent onsen destination.

Although the early efforts to channel onsen water from Hakuba Yari Onsen were never realized, the successful drilling of onsen through the serpentine rock layers led to the establishment of Hakuba Happo Onsen, now renowned as one of Japan’s top onsen for its strong alkalinity and high-quality water. In 2002, the Yokake Festival, where onsen water is poured over a rock mikoshi (portable shrine) made of serpentine rock , began at Hosono Suwa Shrine. This festival has since become a beloved annual event in the region.